Process for treating hair fibres

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a process for treating hair fibres, comprising (i) combing the hair fibres, (ii) applying a composition to the hair fibres, (iii) treating the hair fibres by applying steam, (iv) heat-treating the hair fibres by conduction and/or radiation, step (i) being carried out before step (ii).

The present invention relates to a process for treating hair fibres.

It is known to smooth hair fibres with smoothing irons. These irons makeit possible to obtain smoothing of keratin fibres at high temperature.However, in order to obtain a good smooth appearance, it is necessary tocarry out several passes of the iron, which considerably extends thehair fibre treatment time. Furthermore, the repeated application of theflat smoothing irons can sometimes cause damage to the hair fibres dueto the operating temperature of the smoothing iron.

A device which makes it possible to apply a cosmetic product to thehair, to expose the latter to steam, to subject said hair to heattreatment and to comb it is known from international application WO2014/064660. The comb is placed downstream of the member for applyingthe cosmetic product and the combing step is therefore carried out afterthe product application step.

There is a need to develop a novel process for treating human keratinfibres which makes it possible to fully benefit from the properties ofthe cosmetic product applied and which is easy and rapid to carry out.

The invention aims to meet this need, according to a first aspect, bymeans of a process for treating hair fibres, comprising:

-   -   (i) combing the hair fibres,    -   (ii) applying a composition to the hair fibres,    -   (iii) treating the hair fibres by applying steam,    -   (iv) heat-treating the hair fibres by conduction and/or        radiation,    -   step (i) being carried out before step (ii).

Carrying out the combing before the application of the product makes itpossible to facilitate the penetration of the hair product into thetreated lock.

In addition, this makes the treatment of the hair fibres easier byfacilitating the movement of the tool(s) carrying out the process alongthe hair fibres, in particular by decreasing the force which the usermust exert in order to deposit a predetermined amount of product.

The term “hair fibres” denotes human keratin fibres such as the hair orsynthetic fibres known as “extensions” which are added to anindividual's head of hair by various means, in particular by adhesivebonding, this being in order for example to modify the appearance of anindividual's natural head of hair.

The steps of the process can be carried out by at least two differenttools.

Preferably, the combing step (i) and the step of applying a hair product(ii) are carried out using a single tool.

As a variant, all the steps of the process can be carried out using asingle tool, in particular using a device for shaping the head of hairconfigured to carry out the various steps successively in the sameportion of hair fibres. Preferably, the steps of the process are carriedout by moving the tool(s) along a lock of hair fibres. Step (iv) ofheat-treating the hair fibres can be carried out using a hair smoothingiron.

According to this embodiment, the process of the invention makes itpossible to improve the smoothing of the hair, in particular to decreasethe hair volume.

The steps can be carried out successively in the following order:

-   -   (i), (ii), (iv) then (iii),    -   (iii), (i), (ii) then (iv),    -   (iii), (iv), (i) then (ii),    -   (iv), (iii), (i) then (ii),    -   (iv), (i), (ii) then (iii), or preferentially,    -   (i), (ii), (iii) then (iv).

Preferably, steps (i) and (ii) are carried out, for example, during thesame session at the hairdresser, with a period between them of less thanor equal to 5 min, better still less than or equal to 1 min, even betterstill less than or equal to 30 s, preferentially less than or equal to15 s, and more preferentially less than or equal to 5 s.

Preferably, all the successive steps are carried out with a periodbetween them of less than or equal to 5 min, better still less than orequal to 1 min, even better still less than or equal to 30 s,preferentially less than or equal to 15 s.

The process is preferably free of any combing step after step (ii)within a period of 15 s.

Preferably, the process comprises a single combing step. The fact thatthere is only one combing step makes it possible to simplify the processwithout the efficiency of the treatment being affected thereby.

Preferably, step (iv) is carried out after step (ii), in particular lessthan 5 min, better still less than 1 min, after step (ii), even betterstill less than 30 s, preferentially less than 15 s, after step (ii).

Preferably, step (iii) is carried out after step (ii) and before step(iv), in particular less than 5 min, better still less than 1 min, evenbetter still less than 30 s, preferentially less than 15 s, before step(iii) and after step (ii).

The heat treatment can be carried out by contact of the hair fibres withhot surfaces, in particular hot surfaces applying to the hair a tensionthat makes it possible for example to smooth, style or disentangle thehair fibres.

The heat treatment can be carried out at a temperature greater than orequal to 90° C., preferably greater than or equal to 120° C., morepreferably greater than or equal to 140° C., even more preferablygreater than or equal to 170° C., and/or less than 230° C., preferablyless than 220° C., more preferably less than 210° C.; the hot surfacesare preferably brought to such temperatures.

The amount of steam applied during step (iii) can be greater than orequal to 1 g/min, preferably greater than or equal to 2.5 g/min and lessthan or equal to 60 g/min, preferably less than or equal to 30 g/min,preferably less than or equal to 10 g/min, more preferably less than orequal to 6 g/min, and even more preferably less than or equal to 4.5g/min. The steam applied to the hair fibres during step (iii) maycontain one or more cosmetic ingredients and/or active agents such as afragrance, and/or a hair shaping and/or conditioning active agent.

The composition applied to the hair fibres is preferably in the fluidstate during the application.

The composition may be aqueous or anhydrous.

The composition may comprise at least one ingredient chosen fromsolvents, surfactants, thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, dyeprecursors, direct dyes, silicone or non-silicone and fixing ornon-fixing polymers, fatty substances, in particular mineral, vegetableor synthetic oils, and waxes, reducing agents, oxidizing agents, UVscreening agents, conditioning agents, agents for combating freeradicals, sequestering or stabilizing agents, antioxidants, acidifyingagents, alkaline agents, volatile or non-volatile silicones, reactive orchemically inert polymers, pigments, solid organic or inorganicparticles, vitamins, plant extracts, or propenetrating agents orfibre-swelling agents.

Preferably, the composition is a hair fibre care composition.

The step of applying the composition can be followed or preceded byrinsing, by a step of washing the fibres, by a step of hair shaping orcontrolling the shape, for example using a fixing gel, a hair shapingmousse, a lacquer or a leave-in conditioner in cream form, by a step ofpermanent, semi-permanent or temporary dyeing, by a step of permanentdeformation using a reducing agent and optionally a fixative, by a stepof alkaline straightening, in particular with sodium hydroxide or withguanidine carbonate.

According to a second of its aspects, a subject of the invention is aprocess for treating hair fibres, comprising:

-   -   (i) a single step of combing the hair fibres,    -   (ii) applying a composition to the hair fibres,    -   (iv) heat-treating the hair fibres,    -   step (i) being carried out before step (ii).

The process may, according to this aspect of the invention, optionallycomprise a step (iii) of treating the hair fibres by applying steam.

The characteristics described in relation to the process according tothe first aspect of the invention also apply to the process according tothe second aspect of the invention.

The invention will be better understood from reading the followingdetailed description of non-limiting exemplary embodiments thereof andfrom examining the appended drawing, in which:

FIG. 1 is a diagram illustrating an exemplary embodiment of the processaccording to the invention,

FIG. 2 is a graph obtained according to Example 1 described hereinafter,

FIG. 3 represents four locks of hair according to Example 2 describedhereinafter, and

FIG. 4 represents a graph obtained according to Example 3 describedhereinafter.

In the example illustrated in FIG. 1, the process comprises foursuccessive steps 10, 12, 14 and 16 carried out on a lock of hair fibresby a device for shaping the head of hair. The device is configured toperform the various steps of the process successively on the hairfibres, by movement of said device along the lock of hair, in particularover a portion of the hair fibres inserted between two arms of saiddevice, forming an iron.

Step 10 is a step of combing the hair, making it possible to separatethe hair fibres, before applying a composition in step 12. Theapplication of the composition 12 is preferentially carried outimmediately after step 10. The hair fibres are then subjected to a steamtreatment 14 which is carried out immediately after step 12. Finally,the hair fibres are subjected to a heat treatment 16 intended to smooththem. They are brought into contact with hot plates, in particular eacharranged on one arm of the device, between which they are held tight.

The application of composition 12 can be carried out using an applyingmember placed on one of the arms and which holds the portion of hairfibres undergoing treatment tight against a counter-bearing surface ofthe other arm. As a variant, the application of composition 12 can becarried out using two tools, in particular an applying member and amember for distributing the composition on the hair fibres.

As a variant, the various steps above are carried out with at least twodifferent devices. Steps 10 and 12 can be carried out with a samedevice, for example a comb or a hairbrush applying the composition, andsteps 14 and 16 can be carried out by a same device, in particular asmoothing device, or by two distinct devices, in particular a device forapplying steam and a device for smoothing the hair.

EXAMPLE 1

A first device suitable for the treatment according to the invention isused on locks of natural hair of Caucasian type, having type IVcurliness.

These locks are combed by passing through a comb and then the haircarecomposition A, the formulation of which is given in Table 1, is appliedto said locks, by pinching the locks between an applying member and acounter-bearing surface.

TABLE 1 Composition A. INCI Name % by weight AMODIMETHICONE (and)TRIDECETH-6 (and) 1.0 CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE⁽¹⁾ PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOROIL 0.8 DIMETHICONE (and) LAURETH-23 (and) 5.0 LAURETH-4 ⁽²⁾BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 1.0 STEARYL ALCOHOL 1.5 Active agents 0.12Fragrance 0.2 Preservative 0.9 Water qs 100 ⁽¹⁾XIAMETER MEM-8299EMULSION sold by the company DOW CORNING ⁽²⁾ XIAMETER MEM-2664 EMULSIONsold by the company DOW CORNING

The locks are then subjected to steam with a flow rate of approximately3.5 g/min, then the locks are pinched between two plates of the device,heated to a temperature of 200° C.

In parallel, a second device is used on locks of hair of the same typeas previously. This device makes it possible to carry out the same stepsas previously, but the combing step is carried out after the applicationof the product.

For these two treatments, the time periods between the various steps areapproximately the same and the locks of hair are from the same batch.

The combing force is measured using a tensile testing machine, inparticular a Lloyd LS1® with a 50 N sensor, by measuring the mechanicalstrength of the device by passing over a lock of hair. The results aregiven in Table 2 and in FIG. 2:

TABLE 2 Combing force measured for the first and second devices, atequivalent amount of product applied COMBING FORCE/ APPLICATION (a.u.)Standard Condition Mean deviation Second device 3807.8 1126.9 Firstdevice 1356.1 413.6

It is noted, on the graph of FIG. 2, that when the combing step isupstream of the applying step (application with the first device), theforce required by the user to move the device along the lock of hair forthe same amount of composition applied is on average lower than when thecombing step is carried out downstream of the applying step (applicationwith the second device).

Carrying out the combing step before the applying step facilitates themovement of the device along the lock of hair while preserving goodcomposition application.

EXAMPLE 2

A first device suitable for the treatment according to the invention isused on a lock of natural hair of Caucasian type, having type IVcurliness.

The lock is combed by passing through a comb and then composition A isapplied to the lock by pinching the latter between an applying memberand a counter-bearing surface. The lock is then subjected to steam witha flow rate of approximately 3.5 g/min, and then it is pinched betweentwo plates heated to a temperature of 200° C. The above treatment iscarried out by passing the device along the lock of hair for a period of15 s.

In parallel, a second device is used on a lock of hair of the same typeas previously. This second device makes it possible to carry out thesame steps as previously, but the combing step is carried out after theapplication of the composition. The treatment time is the same.

For these two devices, the time periods between the various steps areapproximately identical.

Finally, a commercial smoothing device, in this case a Styler® ghd goldclassic, is used on a lock of hair of the same type as previously. Thissmoothing device does not comprise any combing means and means forapplying the composition. It is passed along the lock of hair 3 times,each pass lasting 8 s.

The locks of hair used for these various treatments are from the samebatch.

FIG. 3 presents four locks of hair. The first lock 20 starting from theleft is a lock of hair of the type previously described, which hasundergone no treatment. The second lock of hair 22 is a lock of hair ofthe same type, which has been treated with the first device. The thirdlock of hair 24 is a lock of hair of the same type, which has beentreated with the second device. Finally, the last lock of hair 26 is alock of hair of the same type, which has been treated with thecommercial device.

It is noted that, when the combing step is carried out upstream of theapplying step, better smoothing is obtained. The hair fibres arestraighter and as a result exhibit better alignment with one another.The hair fibres also occupy a smaller volume.

EXAMPLE 3

A first treatment according to the invention is carried out on a lock ofnatural hair of Caucasian type, having type IV curliness.

In a first applying step, a first device is used. The device makes itpossible to comb the lock by passing through a comb, then to applycomposition A to said lock by pinching between an applying member and acounter-bearing surface. The first device performs two passes lasting 15s over the lock of hair.

In a second smoothing step, the lock of hair passes through a commercialsmoothing device, in this case the Styler® ghd gold classic previouslyused. This smoothing device makes it possible to pinch the lock of hairbetween two plates heated to a temperature of 190° C. It is passed alongthe lock of hair twice, each pass lasting 15 s.

In parallel, a second treatment is carried out on a lock of hair of thesame type as previously. The second treatment is identical to the first,except that the applying step is carried out with a second device. Thelatter makes it possible to carry out the same steps as previously, butthe combing step is carried out after the application of thecomposition. The treatment time and the number of passes over the lockof hair are the same.

For the two treatments, the time periods between the various steps areapproximately identical.

The combing force as a function of the amount of product applied isdetermined by measuring the resistance of each device to the passingover a lock of hair using a tensile testing machine, in particular aLloyd LS1® with a 50 N sensor. The measurements are taken for eachapplying and smoothing step.

The measurements are taken on three different locks of hair of theabovementioned type.

The results are presented in FIG. 4.

It is noted, on the graph of FIG. 4, that when the combing step isupstream of the applying step (application with the first device), theforces required by the user to move the first device and the smoothingdevice during the first treatment along the lock of hair for the sameamount of composition applied are on average lower than those requiredwith the second device and the smoothing device during the secondtreatment.

Carrying out the combing step before the applying step facilitates themovement of the devices along the lock of hair while preserving goodcomposition application.

1. A process for treating hair fibres, comprising: (i) combing the hairfibres, (ii) applying a composition to the hair fibres, (iii) treatingthe hair fibres by applying steam, (iv) heat-treating the hair fibres byconduction and/or radiation, wherein the combing (i) is carried outbefore the applying (ii).
 2. The process according to claim 1, which isfree of any combing step after the applying (ii) within a period of 15s.
 3. The process according to claim 1, comprising a single combingstep.
 4. A process for treating hair fibres, comprising: (i) a singlestep of combing the hair fibres, (ii) applying a composition to the hairfibres, (iv) heat-treating the hair fibres, wherein the combing (i) iscarried out before the applying (ii).
 5. The process according to claim4, comprising (iii) treating the hair fibres by applying steam.
 6. Theprocess according to claim 1, wherein the treating (iii) is carried outafter the applying (ii) and before the heat-treating (iv).
 7. Theprocess according to claim 1, wherein the combing (i) is carried out forless than 5 min before the applying (ii).
 8. The process according toclaim 1, wherein the heat-treating (iv) is carried out after theapplying (ii).
 9. The process according to claim 1, wherein steps of theprocess are carried out by at least two different tools.
 10. The processaccording to claim 1, wherein the combing (i) and the applying (ii) arecarried out using a single tool.
 11. The process according to claim 1,wherein steps of the process are carried out using a single tool. 12.The process according to claim 9, wherein steps of the process arecarried out by moving the tools along a lock of hair fibres.
 13. Theprocess according to claim 1, the heat treatment (iv) being carried outby contact of the hair fibres with hot surfaces.
 14. The processaccording to claim 1, the heat treatment (iv) being carried out at atemperature of 90° C. to less than 230° C.
 15. The process according toclaim 1, wherein the composition is in the fluid state during theapplication (ii).
 16. The process according to claim 6, wherein thetreating (iii) is carried out less than 5 min before the heat-treating(iv) and after the applying (ii).
 17. The process according to claim 8,wherein the heat-treating (iv) is carried out less than 5 min after theapplying (ii).
 18. The process according to claim 11, wherein the singletool is a device for shaping the head of hair configured to carry outprocess steps successively in the same portion of hair fibres.